Gasherbrum2 - training plan

Mountaineering

With only two months remaining until the Gasherbrum2 expedition I put together a training plan, kind of writting in stone, let's see how it goes.

1. The plan - S.M.A.R.T.

I first read about this training plan in Mountaineering - Freedom of the hills book and it made sense to me back then, now it's time to try it.

Specific

The best training for high altitude mountaineering is of course high altitude mountaineering… smart huh? unfortunately I do not have neither high altitude nor mountains around, that's why I needed find different sport-specific exercises:

  • cardio: hill climbing / stairs stepper with pack

  • strength: dead lift/reverse step-up/calf rises + squats/lunges variations

  • high altitude mask

Measurable

  • measure, compare and adjust along the way

Action-oriented

  • write down a structured training plan

  • find a balance between training and work/life/other commitments

  • individualized

Realistic

  • setting very high goals with little chance of success is useless, a step by step, incremental approach is better

  • dont do the "too much, too soon" mistake

Time-based

  • training details per each day/week

2. The goals

With all the above in mind, lets set the goals:

The training goal

To climb 3000m elevation with a 10kg pack in 10 hours by Jun 14th.

The ultimate goal

To climb Gasherbrum2 peak (8035m) without bottled oxygen, survive and tell the story.

3. The schedule

Week 0 - Apr 12th: The research [DONE]

Mostly researching high altitude training techniques, try things out, create this plan.

day training type exercises training mask
Mon cross walking - 2h, elliptical - 30min, cycling - 1h level1: 2x25min
Tue strength dead lift: 3x5(+2kg), reverse step-up(+2kg): 3x15, calf-rises: 3x15 level4: 2x25min
Wed rest day walking: 40min, yoga: hatha + laya - 3h level6: 2x25min
Thu strength squats - 5x15, lunges - 5x15, reverse lunges - 5x15 (all +2kg) level8: 1x1h
Fri cardio stairs-stepper - elevation: 750m/1h, swimming - 1h level9: 2x25min
Sat rest day yoga: hatha + laya level9: 1x1h
Sun endurance hill climbing - elevation: 500m, 3h level10: 1x1h

Week 1 - Apr 19th: The Kick-off [DONE]

day training type exercises training mask
Mon cardio stairs-stepper: 600m (50min), swim: 2600m (1h) -
Tue functional calisthenics: freeletics conditioning (50min) level12: 1x1h
Wed rest day hatha/laya yoga: 2.5h level13: 2x1h
Thu strength dead lift: 3x15 (+2kg), r-step-up: 3x50 (+4kg), calf-rises: 3x15 (+1kg), squats/r-lunges/lunges: 3x25 (+2kg) level14: 1x2h
Fri endurance walking w/ pack: 2h (+2kg), cycling: 1h level15: 1x1h
Sat specific hill climbing: 700m (+1kg) level16: 1x2h
Sun rest day walking: 2x40min, yoga: 2.5h level16: 1x2h

Week 2 - Apr 26th: The Kick-off [DONE]

day training type exercises training mask
Mon endurance walking w/ pack: 3h (+3kg), cycling: 1h level18: 1x25min
Tue functional freeletics: beat PB, strength: 15x dead-lift, 50x r-step-up, 15x calf rises level18: 1x25min
Wed rest day hatha/laya yoga: 3h level16: 1x2h
Thu cardio stairs-stepper: 750m, swim: 2100m (1h) -
Fri strength dead lift: 4x15 (+2kg), r-step-up: 4x50 (+4kg), calf-rises: 4x15 (+1kg), squats/r-lunges/lunges: 4x25 (+2kg) level16: 2x1h
Sat specific hill climbing: 1000m (+2kg) level18: 1x25min
Sun rest day Easter break level18: 1x25min

Week 3 - May 3rd: Build strength [DONE]

day training type exercises training mask
Mon rest day Easter break
Tue rest day Easter break
Wed functional freeletics: conditioning; s-leg dead lift: 3x15 (+2kg), r-step-up: 3x50 (+5kg), calf-rises: 3x15 (+2kg), squats/r-lunges/lunges: 3x25 (+5kg) level18: 1x25min
Thu cardio stairs-stepper: 900m (+3kg), swim: 2600m level16: 1x1h
Fri endurance walking w/ pack: 2h (+3kg), cycling: 1h level16: 1x2h
Sat rest day walking: 1x40min, hatha/pranayama yoga - 3h
Sun specific hill climbing: 1250m (+3kg)

Week 4 - May 10th: Build strength [DONE]

day training type exercises training mask
Mon functional calisthenics: freeletics - 1h
Tue cardio stairs-stepper: 1200m (+4kg), swim: 50min
Wed rest day walking: 2x40min, weekly yoga: 3h
Thu strength s-leg dead lift: 3x15 (+2kg), r-step-up: 4x25(+4kg), calf-rises: 4x15 (+1kg), squats/r-lunges/lunges: 4x25 (+4kg)
Fri endurance unexpected events
Sat specific hill climbing: 1450m (+4kg)
Sun rest day lazy day

Week 5 - May 17th: Build endurance [DONE]

day training type exercises training mask
Mon functional hangover :)
Tue cardio stairs-stepper: 1280m (+5kg), swim: 30min
Wed rest day weekly yoga: 2h
Thu strength dead lift: 5x15 (+2kg), reverse step-up: 5x50 (+5kg), calf-rises: 5x15 (+1kg), squats/r-lunges/lunges: 5x25 (+5kg)
Fri endurance walking w/ pack: 4h, cycling: 1h
Sat specific hill climbing: 1550m (+5kg)
Sun rest day rest

Week 6 - May 24: Build endurance [DONE]

day training type exercises training mask
Mon functional calisthenics: freeletics full body (2h)
Tue cardio stairs-stepper: 1800m (+6kg), swim: 30min
Wed rest day walking: 2x40min, weekly yoga: 3h
Thu strength dead lift: 5x15 (+2kg), reverse step-up: 5x50 (+6kg), calf-rises: 5x15 (+1kg), squats/r-lunges/lunges: 5x25 (+6kg)
Fri endurance walking w/ pack: 3h, cycling: 1h
Sat specific hill climbing: 1600m +11kg (7h)
Sun specific hill climbing: 1200m +11kg (8h)

Week 7 - May 31st: The final

day training type exercises training mask
Mon specific hill climbing: 3x300m (5h)
Tue specific hill climbing: 2100m (6h)
Wed rest day hatha/laya yoga: 2h
Thu strength dead lift: 3x15 (+2kg), reverse step-up: 3x50 (+7kg), calf-rises: 3x15 (+1kg), squats/r-lunges/lunges: 3x25 (+7kg)
Fri endurance walking: 5h
Sat specific -
Sun rest day -

Week 8 - June 7th: The final

day training type exercises training mask
Mon functional calisthenics: 2h
Tue cardio base stairs-stepper: 2400m (+8kg), swim: 1h
Wed rest day walking: 40min, hatha/laya yoga: 3h
Thu strength dead lift: 5x15 (+2kg), reverse step-up: 5x50 (+8kg), calf-rises: 5x15 (+1kg), squats/r-lunges/lunges: 5x25 (+8kg)
Fri endurance walking w/ pack: 6h (+8kg), cycling: 1h
Sat specific hill climbing: 3000m (+8kg)
Sun rest day hatha yoga: 2h
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