With only two months remaining until the Gasherbrum2 expedition I put together a training plan, kind of writting in stone, let's see how it goes.
1. The plan - S.M.A.R.T.
I first read about this training plan in Mountaineering - Freedom of the hills book and it made sense to me back then, now it's time to try it.
Specific
The best training for high altitude mountaineering is of course high altitude mountaineering… smart huh? unfortunately I do not have neither high altitude nor mountains around, that's why I needed find different sport-specific exercises:
- cardio: hill climbing / stairs stepper with pack
- strength: dead lift/reverse step-up/calf rises + squats/lunges variations
- high altitude mask
Measurable
- measure, compare and adjust along the way
Action-oriented
- write down a structured training plan
- find a balance between training and work/life/other commitments
- individualized
Realistic
- setting very high goals with little chance of success is useless, a step by step, incremental approach is better
- dont do the "too much, too soon" mistake
Time-based
- training details per each day/week
2. The goals
With all the above in mind, lets set the goals:
The training goal
To climb 3000m elevation with a 10kg pack in 10 hours by Jun 14th.
The ultimate goal
To climb Gasherbrum2 peak (8035m) without bottled oxygen, survive and tell the story.
3. The schedule
Week 0 - Apr 12th: The research [DONE]
Mostly researching high altitude training techniques, try things out, create this plan.
| day | training type | exercises | training mask |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mon | cross | walking - 2h, elliptical - 30min, cycling - 1h | level1: 2x25min |
| Tue | strength | dead lift: 3x5(+2kg), reverse step-up(+2kg): 3x15, calf-raises: 3x15 | level4: 2x25min |
| Wed | rest day | walking: 40min, yoga: hatha + laya - 3h | level6: 2x25min |
| Thu | strength | squats - 5x15, lunges - 5x15, reverse lunges - 5x15 (all +2kg) | level8: 1x1h |
| Fri | cardio | stairs-stepper - elevation: 750m/1h, swimming - 1h | level9: 2x25min |
| Sat | rest day | yoga: hatha + laya | level9: 1x1h |
| Sun | endurance | hill climbing - elevation: 500m, 3h | level10: 1x1h |
Week 1 - Apr 19th: The Kick-off [DONE]
| day | training type | exercises | training mask |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mon | cardio | stairs-stepper: 600m (50min), swim: 2600m (1h) | - |
| Tue | functional | calisthenics: freeletics conditioning (50min) | level12: 1x1h |
| Wed | rest day | hatha/laya yoga: 2.5h | level13: 2x1h |
| Thu | strength | dead lift: 3x15 (+2kg), r-step-up: 3x50 (+4kg), calf-raises: 3x15 (+1kg), squats/r-lunges/lunges: 3x25 (+2kg) | level14: 1x2h |
| Fri | endurance | walking w/ pack: 2h (+2kg), cycling: 1h | level15: 1x1h |
| Sat | specific | hill climbing: 700m (+1kg) | level16: 1x2h |
| Sun | rest day | walking: 2x40min, yoga: 2.5h | level16: 1x2h |
Week 2 - Apr 26th: The Kick-off [DONE]
| day | training type | exercises | training mask |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mon | endurance | walking w/ pack: 3h (+3kg), cycling: 1h | level18: 1x25min |
| Tue | functional | freeletics: beat PB, strength: 15x dead-lift, 50x r-step-up, 15x calf raises | level18: 1x25min |
| Wed | rest day | hatha/laya yoga: 3h | level16: 1x2h |
| Thu | cardio | stairs-stepper: 750m, swim: 2100m (1h) | - |
| Fri | strength | dead lift: 4x15 (+2kg), r-step-up: 4x50 (+4kg), calf-raises: 4x15 (+1kg), squats/r-lunges/lunges: 4x25 (+2kg) | level16: 2x1h |
| Sat | specific | hill climbing: 1000m (+2kg) | level18: 1x25min |
| Sun | rest day | Easter break | level18: 1x25min |
Week 3 - May 3rd: Build strength [DONE]
| day | training type | exercises | training mask |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mon | rest day | Easter break | |
| Tue | rest day | Easter break | |
| Wed | functional | freeletics: conditioning; s-leg dead lift: 3x15 (+2kg), r-step-up: 3x50 (+5kg), calf-raises: 3x15 (+2kg), squats/r-lunges/lunges: 3x25 (+5kg) | level18: 1x25min |
| Thu | cardio | stairs-stepper: 900m (+3kg), swim: 2600m | level16: 1x1h |
| Fri | endurance | walking w/ pack: 2h (+3kg), cycling: 1h | level16: 1x2h |
| Sat | rest day | walking: 1x40min, hatha/pranayama yoga - 3h | |
| Sun | specific | hill climbing: 1250m (+3kg) |
Week 4 - May 10th: Build strength [DONE]
| day | training type | exercises | training mask |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mon | functional | calisthenics: freeletics - 1h | |
| Tue | cardio | stairs-stepper: 1200m (+4kg), swim: 50min | |
| Wed | rest day | walking: 2x40min, weekly yoga: 3h | |
| Thu | strength | s-leg dead lift: 3x15 (+2kg), r-step-up: 4x25(+4kg), calf-raises: 4x15 (+1kg), squats/r-lunges/lunges: 4x25 (+4kg) | |
| Fri | endurance | unexpected events | |
| Sat | specific | hill climbing: 1450m (+4kg) | |
| Sun | rest day | lazy day |
Week 5 - May 17th: Build endurance [DONE]
| day | training type | exercises | training mask |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mon | functional | hangover :) | |
| Tue | cardio | stairs-stepper: 1280m (+5kg), swim: 30min | |
| Wed | rest day | weekly yoga: 2h | |
| Thu | strength | dead lift: 5x15 (+2kg), reverse step-up: 5x50 (+5kg), calf-raises: 5x15 (+1kg), squats/r-lunges/lunges: 5x25 (+5kg) | |
| Fri | endurance | walking w/ pack: 4h, cycling: 1h | |
| Sat | specific | hill climbing: 1550m (+5kg) | |
| Sun | rest day | rest |
Week 6 - May 24: Build endurance [DONE]
| day | training type | exercises | training mask |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mon | functional | calisthenics: freeletics full body (2h) | |
| Tue | cardio | stairs-stepper: 1800m (+6kg), swim: 30min | |
| Wed | rest day | walking: 2x40min, weekly yoga: 3h | |
| Thu | strength | dead lift: 5x15 (+2kg), reverse step-up: 5x50 (+6kg), calf-raises: 5x15 (+1kg), squats/r-lunges/lunges: 5x25 (+6kg) | |
| Fri | endurance | walking w/ pack: 3h, cycling: 1h | |
| Sat | specific | hill climbing: 1600m +11kg (7h) | |
| Sun | specific | hill climbing: 1200m +11kg (8h) |
Week 7 - May 31st: The final
| day | training type | exercises | training mask |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mon | specific | hill climbing: 3x300m (5h) | |
| Tue | specific | hill climbing: 2100m (6h) | |
| Wed | rest day | hatha/laya yoga: 2h | |
| Thu | strength | dead lift: 3x15 (+2kg), reverse step-up: 3x50 (+7kg), calf-raises: 3x15 (+1kg), squats/r-lunges/lunges: 3x25 (+7kg) | |
| Fri | endurance | walking: 5h | |
| Sat | specific | - | |
| Sun | rest day | - |
Week 8 - June 7th: The final
| day | training type | exercises | training mask |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mon | functional | calisthenics: 2h | |
| Tue | cardio base | stairs-stepper: 2400m (+8kg), swim: 1h | |
| Wed | rest day | walking: 40min, hatha/laya yoga: 3h | |
| Thu | strength | dead lift: 5x15 (+2kg), reverse step-up: 5x50 (+8kg), calf-raises: 5x15 (+1kg), squats/r-lunges/lunges: 5x25 (+8kg) | |
| Fri | endurance | walking w/ pack: 6h (+8kg), cycling: 1h | |
| Sat | specific | hill climbing: 3000m (+8kg) | |
| Sun | rest day | hatha yoga: 2h |
References
- https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/118565.Mountaineering
- https://missadventurepants.com/blog/advanced-mountaineering-training-plan
- http://www.bodyresults.com/s2mountaineering-strength.asp
- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Altitude_training
- https://www.summitstrength.com.au/blog/a-great-muscular-endurance-workout-for-hikers
- https://theprehabguys.com/single-leg-romanian-deadlift/
- https://www.adventuresportspodcast.com/2019/05/ep-523-how-to-train-for-your-adventure.html
- https://www.summitstrength.com.au/blog/the-best-exercises-for-trekkers-the-step-down